Tongariro Alpine Crossing from Ohakune
Discover the beauty and cultural significance of the Tongariro Alpine Crossing. Learn about safety, planning your hike, and convenient shuttle options from Ohakune while staying at Two Rivers Ohakune.
Our guide to one of New Zealand's great alpine adventures
Few experiences in New Zealand compare to the Tongariro Alpine Crossing. Widely regarded as one of the world's great day walks, this remarkable journey takes you through a landscape shaped by volcanic forces, Māori history and the ever-changing moods of the Central North Island.
Ula and I first saw the mountains of the Central Plateau in January 2012, when we travelled from Wellington to Taupō. On a beautiful summer's day, their majesty was revealed almost instantly. Even with summer warmth in the air, the snow-covered summit of Mt Ruapehu hinted at the scale and grandeur of these remarkable mountains.
It was not until January 2021 that we completed the Tongariro Alpine Crossing ourselves, but it remains one of those days that is still vivid in our family's memory. The sense of achievement, the changing landscapes and the sheer beauty of the volcanic environment created an experience we continue to treasure.
The photos on this page are all taken by Ula and I during our first adventure...
From the dramatic slopes of Mount Tongariro to the vivid Emerald Lakes and the vast volcanic landscapes beyond, every step reveals something extraordinary.
Whether you're visiting New Zealand from overseas or exploring your own backyard, the Crossing offers a rare opportunity to experience a place that is both breathtakingly beautiful and deeply significant.
And if you're looking for somewhere to stay before or after the walk, Ohakune makes an excellent base for exploring the Tongariro Alpine Crossing and the wider Ruapehu region.
Staying in Ohakune for the Tongariro Alpine Crossing
Ohakune is one of the closest towns to the Tongariro Alpine Crossing and is well placed for visitors who want to combine the walk with a comfortable stay in the Ruapehu region.
DOC currently lists Ohakune among the local towns from which shuttle services operate to the Crossing. From Two Rivers, you're also within easy reach of local cafés, restaurants and outdoor services, while having a peaceful place to return to after a long day in the mountains.
Two Rivers is at 44 Burns Street, Ohakune, beside the Mangawhero and Mangateitei rivers. We are just a short walk from the village and approximately 30 minutes by road from the Tongariro Alpine Crossing trailhead.
Our three private suites provide a quiet place to rest before an early start or recover after the walk. Every stay includes in-room continental breakfast supplies, and our Mangawhero and Rua Awa Suites each have a private hot tub — a particularly welcome luxury after a full day on the mountain.
We're also happy to share local knowledge, including advice about shuttle services, weather, alternative walks and places to eat.
A landscape of remarkable beauty
The Tongariro Alpine Crossing traverses the heart of Tongariro National Park, New Zealand's oldest national park and a UNESCO World Heritage site recognised for its exceptional natural, cultural and spiritual significance.
The walk begins at approximately 1,120 metres above sea level in the Mangatepōpō Valley. From there, the track climbs steadily through an increasingly dramatic volcanic landscape.
Along the way you'll encounter ancient lava flows, volcanic craters, steaming vents and striking alpine vegetation before reaching the spectacular Emerald Lakes. The highest point of the Crossing is Red Crater, at approximately 1,886 metres.
The descent from Red Crater brings you onto steep volcanic scree before continuing past the Emerald Lakes and Blue Lake. We recommend caution at this point, as the track is very loose and it's easy to slip or fall. From there, the track gradually descends the northern slopes of Tongariro before eventually reaching Ketetahi Road.
The scenery changes constantly throughout the day. On clear days, views extend across Lake Rotoaira and Lake Taupō, while Mt Ruapehu and the wider Central Plateau provide a spectacular backdrop.
It is a landscape that can feel almost otherworldly.
Respecting the mountains
As visitors, we are privileged to travel through this special place.
Tongariro is not simply a spectacular landscape. The mountains and waterways have deep cultural and spiritual significance to Ngāti Hikairo ki Tongariro of Ngāti Tūwharetoa, who are kaitiaki — guardians — of Tongariro.
Visitors are asked to respect the cultural significance of the maunga by staying on the marked track, taking all rubbish away and treating the landscape with care.
In particular, the alpine lakes and waterways are sacred. Please do not touch or enter the lakes or other waterways.
For many people, the mountains are also a place of personal reflection and spiritual meaning. Taking the time to understand something of that significance can add another dimension to the experience.
Tongariro National Park holds UNESCO World Heritage status for both its natural and cultural values, reflecting the extraordinary combination of volcanic landscapes, biodiversity and cultural heritage found here.
The weather: prepare for an alpine environment
One thing that can surprise visitors is just how genuinely alpine the Tongariro Alpine Crossing is. Much like the Rockies or the European Alps, conditions can change quickly and dramatically. Even in summer, strong winds, heavy rain, poor visibility and very cold temperatures are possible. Snow can fall at any time of year.
Locals sometimes talk about experiencing four seasons in one day. On the mountains, that isn't an exaggeration.
The weather at the car park when you start walking can be very different from the conditions around Red Crater several hours later. That's why preparation matters. Always check the latest weather forecast and current track information before setting out. During the summer hiking season, DOC also operates a daily “Not Recommended Today” advisory when forecast conditions reach potentially hazardous levels.
If conditions aren't suitable, don't be tempted to push on simply because you've already arranged your transport.
The Crossing has a very different character depending on the season.
Summer
From roughly November through April, the longer daylight hours and generally more settled conditions make this the main season for most independent walkers. That doesn't mean summer conditions are guaranteed to be easy. The track is exposed, the weather can deteriorate quickly, and the walk is long and physically demanding.
Autumn and spring
These seasons can be beautiful, with crisp air, fewer people and spectacular visibility. They can also bring rapidly changing conditions, including snow and ice at higher elevations. Treat the mountains with the same respect you would give them in winter.
Winter
From May through October, the Tongariro Alpine Crossing becomes a serious alpine undertaking. Snow, ice, avalanche terrain, sub-zero temperatures and poor visibility can all be present. DOC advises that special alpine skills, equipment and experience are required during this period.
For most visitors, we strongly recommend using a professional guiding company for a winter Crossing rather than attempting it independently.
A guide can provide the specialist knowledge, equipment, route-finding skills and judgement required for changing alpine conditions. Winter shuttle services generally do not operate in the same way as they do during the main walking season, so transport also needs to be considered carefully.
If you are not an experienced winter alpine walker, there are many safer ways to experience Tongariro National Park during the colder months.
Before you walk the Tongariro Alpine Crossing
One lesson we learned ourselves is that the Crossing feels much bigger than its approximately 20 kilometres might suggest.
It is a full day in a genuine alpine environment, with substantial climbing and a long descent. A reasonable level of fitness is important, and you should allow plenty of time rather than treating the published walking time as a target.
We recommend:
~ Check the latest weather forecast and current track information before you leave.
~ Check the DOC information and complete the Tongariro Alpine Crossing booking process before arranging your transport.
~ Remember that a booking is needed when using a shuttle or guided walk service.
~ Wear sturdy hiking footwear with good grip. Take walking poles if you normally use them. Equipment can be hired locally.
~ Carry warm and waterproof layers regardless of the forecast.
~ Bring sunscreen, sunglasses and a hat. There is very little shelter on much of the alpine section.
~ Carry plenty of food and water. DOC recommends taking 2–3 litres of water, as water along the track is not suitable for drinking.
~ Take a fully charged mobile phone and consider carrying a power bank.
~ Allow more time than you think you will need.
~ Make sure your fitness and experience are appropriate for a long, exposed alpine walk.
~ Stay on the marked track and follow all DOC safety advice.
~ Never enter or touch the alpine lakes or waterways.
~ If conditions deteriorate, be prepared to turn around.
And one final piece of advice from our own experience:
Don't underestimate the descent.
By the final few kilometres, many walkers discover muscles they didn't know they had. The long zig-zag sections and repeated steps can be surprisingly demanding on your knees and thighs.
Parking and transport
The Tongariro Alpine Crossing is a one-way walk, beginning at Mangatepōpō and finishing at Ketetahi. This makes transport an important part of your planning.
DOC advises that there is no visitor parking at the Mangatepōpō car park during summer and recommends using shuttle transport. There is also private parking available near the Ketetahi end.
For most visitors, arranging a shuttle is the simplest and least stressful option. It means you don't have to worry about moving a vehicle between the two ends of the Crossing, and you can concentrate on the walk itself.
Tongariro Crossing shuttle from Ohakune
One of the advantages of staying in Ohakune is the availability of local shuttle services to the Tongariro Alpine Crossing. For guests staying at Two Rivers, Dempsey Buses are our preferred local shuttle operator for the Tongariro Alpine Crossing. They operate Crossing services from the Ohakune area during the walking season, with services departing Ohakune by around 7am. Advance booking is essential. Their local knowledge and proximity to Two Rivers make them a particularly convenient option for our guests.
If you're staying with us and planning the Crossing, we're happy to help you work through the transport options.
Other transport options
Some walkers prefer to drive closer to the Crossing and arrange transport from there. The Waimarino – National Park Village Park & Ride is another option, particularly for visitors who want to make use of transport services from National Park.
Another approach is to park near the Ketetahi end and arrange a shuttle to the Mangatepōpō start. This can give you more flexibility at the end of the day because you return to your own vehicle rather than waiting for a scheduled afternoon collection.
Transport arrangements change according to the season and operator availability, so we recommend checking the current information directly with the provider before travelling.
Travelling responsibly
As a small accommodation business beside two rivers, sustainability is something we care about personally. At Two Rivers, we encourage our guests to support local businesses and transport providers wherever possible. Booking directly with local operators, rather than using international booking sites, helps to keep more of your travel spending within the Ruapehu community and supports the families and businesses that make the region what it is.
When visiting Tongariro National Park, we also encourage guests to follow the principles of the Tiaki Promise — caring for people, place and culture while travelling through Aotearoa New Zealand. That means travelling safely, respecting the cultural significance of the mountains, staying on the tracks and leaving the landscape as you found it.
What if the weather isn't suitable?
The Tongariro Alpine Crossing is spectacular, but it isn't the only way to experience this part of New Zealand.
If the weather forecast isn't suitable for the Crossing, don't feel that your day has been wasted. There are many other walks and experiences around Ohakune, Mt Ruapehu and Tongariro National Park, and we're always happy to suggest alternatives based on the weather and your interests. Depending on conditions, options can include shorter walks around the national park, the Taranaki Falls Walking Track or the Tama Lakes Track.
Sometimes the best mountain day is the one where you decide not to climb it.
Our connection to Tongariro and Ohakune
In many ways, it was the Tongariro Alpine Crossing, together with a love of skiing, that first drew Ula and me to this region. We first saw these mountains in 2012. Nine years later, we finally walked the Crossing ourselves.
What began as a visit eventually became a decision to make this remarkable place our home.
Today, we love helping guests discover not only the Tongariro Alpine Crossing, but the wider Ruapehu region that we are fortunate enough to call home.
That's one of the things we enjoy most about running Two Rivers.
We aren't simply providing somewhere to sleep before an early shuttle. We're here to help you make the most of your time in Ohakune — whether that means recommending a restaurant, helping you understand the weather forecast, suggesting an alternative walk, or simply sharing what we've learned from living here.
Planning your Tongariro Alpine Crossing?
If you're looking for Tongariro Crossing accommodation in Ohakune, we'd love to welcome you to Two Rivers.
Our private suites provide a peaceful riverside base, with Ohakune village just a short walk away and the Tongariro Alpine Crossing easily accessible by local shuttle.
Come for the Crossing. Stay for the mountains, rivers, forests and everything else that makes the Ruapehu region special.
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Important information
Mountain conditions can change rapidly. Information on this page is intended as a practical guide based on our experience and should not replace current information from the Department of Conservation, weather forecasts, volcanic alerts or professional mountain guides.
Always check the latest official information before setting out.
Author: Scott Tansley - Owner and Host at Two Rivers Ohakune
Your Perfect Base for Exploration
The great advantage of staying at Two Rivers Ohakune is that you don't need to choose between adventure and relaxation.
Each morning, wake to views of Mt Ruapehu and set out to explore some of New Zealand's most remarkable landscapes. Each evening, return to the privacy, comfort, and serenity of your riverside retreat.
Whether you're here for hiking, skiing, cycling, sightseeing, food and wine, or simply a chance to reconnect with nature, Two Rivers offers the perfect base from which to discover the very best of Tongariro and Ruapehu.
After adventuring on those volcanic ridgelines, there's something deeply satisfying about slipping into a private hot tub while listening to the river below. Many guests tell us that's when the gravity of their adventure really sinks in.