Mt Ruapehu Snow Sports from Ohakune
After a day on the slopes, there is something special about finding a quiet place to unwind, warm up and plan the next day's snow adventure.
Mt Ruapehu Snow Sports from Two Rivers Ohakune
At Two Rivers Ohakune, the mountain day doesn't simply end when you leave the ski field. You return to the warmth and comfort of your suite, take a long hot shower and, in our Rua Awa and Mangawhero Suites, soak tired legs in your private hot tub while the rivers flow gently below.
You might spend the evening in one of Ohakune's restaurants or simply stay in, rest and reflect on the day. Then sleep well beside the rivers before waking up to do it all again.
Why stay in Ohakune for Snow Sports?
~ A southern gateway to Tongariro National Park, with restaurants, cafés and everything you need nearby
~ There is easy access to all Mt Ruapehu Snow Sports from Ohakune
~ A genuine New Zealand mountain town with ski shops and winter essentials on hand
~ Easy access to Tūroa Ski Area
~ Whakapapa is close enough to enjoy as a day trip when exploring the northern side of Mt Ruapehu
~ A relaxed environment away from the mountain at the end of the day
~ Private, boutique accommodation beside two rivers at Two Rivers Ohakune
Why stay at Two Rivers Ohakune?
Sleep well beside the rivers before your adventure. Take breakfast in your suite, drive to the ski field or catch a local shuttle, and spend the day skiing or snowboarding among the remarkable volcanic landscapes of Mt Ruapehu.
Afterwards, return to Two Rivers for a long hot shower, dinner in Ohakune and, for guests staying in Rua Awa or Mangawhero, a soak in your private hot tub as the rivers flow gently below.
Then simply rest and reflect on your day of adventure.
Two Rivers offers far more than simply a place to sleep. It is the comfort and luxury that bookends each day of your snow sports adventure. Quality sleep, rest and recovery are all part of making the most of your time on the mountain.
Breakfast on the deck overlooking Mt Ruapehu, as seen from the Mangawhero Suite
A practical guide to skiing, snowboarding and winter adventures from Two Rivers Ohakune
In winter, Mt Ruapehu transforms the Central Plateau into one of New Zealand's most exciting mountain playgrounds. This was something that Scott and I did not experience until July 2020. World events meant that we could not take our planned trip back to Europe. Instead, our son - then a teenager, and after asking for years to learn to ski - finally got his chance. The stars aligned and we took a long weekend to Whakapapa Village during the school holidays.
We thought we would get wet, cold and miserable. Instead, we found a family passion.
Immediately it was obvious that we were hooked on skiing and, indeed, the Ruapehu region. We also found our first trip a little confusing. There was equipment to hire, roads to understand, ski fields to choose between and a mountain environment that was completely new to us.
Over the following years, we returned again and again. For us, winter became one of the reasons we first fell in love with this remarkable part of New Zealand. Long before we became the owners and hosts at Two Rivers, we came here for skiing and mountain adventures.
Like many visitors, we initially arrived for the mountain. We soon found ourselves equally drawn to the atmosphere, scenery, people and the wider Ruapehu region. That is why we have put this guide together.
We are not ski instructors, mountain guides or avalanche experts. We are simply people who came here, learned to ski, explored the region and eventually decided that we wanted to make it our home.
The photography on this page is our own, and we are always happy to talk with guests about the parts of the mountain and wider region that we have experienced ourselves.
For many visitors, the first question is simple:
"Should I stay in Ohakune if I'm planning to ski or snowboard on Mt Ruapehu?"
Our answer is easy. Absolutely.
Ohakune has long been one of the main bases for winter adventures on Mt Ruapehu. From Two Rivers, Tūroa is approximately 20 minutes away by car or shuttle, while Whakapapa is around 40 minutes away, depending on conditions. That means you can spend your days in the alpine environment while returning each evening to the comfort of a genuine mountain town - and then to the peace and quiet of Two Rivers.
Mt Ruapehu - From Ohakune Town Centre (Source: Lilia Alexander)
Staying in Ohakune for snow sports
During winter, Ohakune comes alive.
The cafés open early, rental shops are busy preparing equipment, and visitors share stories of the day's conditions over dinner and drinks.
Unlike many ski destinations around the world, Ohakune is not simply a resort village built around a ski field.
It is a genuine New Zealand mountain town with character, history and a strong sense of community.
At Two Rivers, you can enjoy:
~ Boutique accommodation beside two rivers
~ Private suites
~ Complimentary continental breakfast supplies
~ Free parking
~ Easy access to Mt Ruapehu
~ Private hot tubs in our Rua Awa and Mangawhero Suites
~ A peaceful retreat after a day on the mountain
Few things compare with soaking in a hot tub after a day on the slopes while watching the last light fade from Mt Ruapehu.
And on a clear, crisp winter night, you may simply look upwards and find the stars putting on a show of their own.
The mountain may be the reason you came. But the place you recover afterwards can become an equally important part of the experience.
Tūroa Ski Area - the dark side - looking to the summit from mid-field
Tūroa Ski Area
For guests staying in Ohakune, Tūroa is often the natural first choice. Located on the south-western slopes of Mt Ruapehu, it is the closest major ski area to town. On a clear morning, the journey from Ohakune quickly takes you from the valley floor into a completely different alpine environment. Always use a Dempsey's Shuttle if you're not sure about driving the road for yourself.
Tūroa is famous for:
~ Long runs
~ Wide-open terrain
~ Dramatic views
~ Terrain suited to a range of skiing and snowboarding abilities
~ Snowboarding without the need for long traverses
~ Terrain parks and freestyle opportunities
~ One of the longest vertical descents in Australasia
Many of our guests prefer Tūroa because of its proximity to Ohakune and the variety of terrain available across the mountain.
On a clear day you can see the top of the High Noon Express from Two Rivers…. Assuming winter road conditions allow for straightforward travel, you can be at the ski field in approximately 20 minutes. The journey itself is part of the experience. As you climb Ohakune Mountain Road, the surrounding landscape changes rapidly. Forest gives way to open alpine terrain and, before long, you find yourself standing on a volcano.
On clear days, the views from the mountain can stretch far beyond Ruapehu itself. It is a remarkable place to spend a day.
The Pinnacles at Whakapapa ski area - the magic mountain - as seen from the Knoll Ridge Cafe
Whakapapa Ski Area
Whakapapa offers a different perspective on Mt Ruapehu. Located on the northern side of the mountain, it takes longer to reach from Ohakune, but many visitors find that spending a day at Whakapapa gives them an entirely different experience of the wider volcanic landscape. The journey from Two Rivers is approximately 40 minutes, depending on conditions. At busy times, particularly during weekends and school holidays, it is worth planning your journey carefully and checking current transport and parking information before setting out. If you’re in any doubt then arrange a shuttle bus from the Park and Ride in Waimarino (National Park).
Many visitors choose to experience both ski areas during their stay. It’s quite common to have high winds or low visibility on one side and perfect conditions on the other.
Whakapapa is well known for:
~ The North Island's largest ski area
~ Extensive facilities for beginners and progressing skiers
~ High Quality snow-making facilities providing consistent on-trail conditions
~ The Sky Waka gondola
~ Family-friendly facilities - Snowland
~ Access to New Zealand's highest café
~ Dramatic volcanic scenery
The Sky Waka also means that Whakapapa can be an enjoyable mountain experience even for people who have no intention of putting skis or a snowboard on their feet. For us, this is one of the reasons that a winter stay in Ohakune can work so well for couples, families and groups where not everyone has the same appetite for snow sports. One person may spend the day skiing. Another may enjoy sightseeing. Someone else may simply decide that coffee, lunch and a return to the hot tub sounds like a better plan.
There is nothing wrong with any of those choices.
The Why Nots at Tūroa Ski Area
Tūroa or Whakapapa?
We are often asked which ski area is better. The honest answer? Neither is better.
They are simply different.
Conditions, operations, terrain preferences and individual ability can all influence which mountain is the right choice on a particular day.
Choose Tūroa if you:
~ Are staying in Ohakune and want the shortest journey to the mountain
~ Enjoy the southern side of Mt Ruapehu
~ Want to spend multiple days exploring terrain close to your accommodation
~ Prefer the convenience of returning quickly to town at the end of the day
Choose Whakapapa if you:
~ Would like to experience the northern side of Mt Ruapehu
~ Are interested in the Sky Waka gondola
~ Have beginners or non-skiers in your group
~ Enjoy sightseeing as much as snow sports
~ Want to explore a different part of the mountain
Our recommendation? If your stay allows it, experience both.
Mt Ruapehu is a large and varied mountain. Seeing it from both sides gives you a far greater sense of the landscape you are exploring.
Tukino Skifield - photo from Wikipedia
Looking for something different? Tūkino
There is another option for experienced and adventurous visitors. Tūkino is a club field on the eastern side of Mt Ruapehu and offers a very different type of mountain experience.
It is accessible from the Ohakune area, but the journey and conditions can require significantly more preparation and suitable (4WD) vehicles than a normal visit to Tūroa or Whakapapa.
If you have not skied there before, we strongly recommend speaking to people with current local knowledge before making plans. This is one of the areas where Scott and I are happy to say: We are not the experts. If Tūkino is on your list, call into TCB in Ohakune and talk with the team about current conditions, equipment and the skills required.
Local knowledge is invaluable.
A remarkable Landscape - Tongariro, Nguaruhoe and Ruapehu
A remarkable mountain landscape
Mt Ruapehu stands at the heart of one of New Zealand's most remarkable landscapes. The highest mountain in the North Island rises within Tongariro National Park - a place recognised internationally for both its natural and cultural significance.
When you travel up the mountain to ski or snowboard, you are entering a landscape shaped by volcanic activity. Ancient lava flows, craters and dramatic alpine terrain surround the ski areas. The mountain is active, dynamic and constantly reminds you that this is not simply a ski resort constructed in the mountains. The ski fields are part of the mountain itself.
At around 1,600 metres above sea level, the base areas of Whakapapa and Tūroa are already a dramatic climb above Ohakune. Higher lifts and mountain terrain take visitors further into the alpine environment. The journey upwards can be as memorable as the journey down.
There are moments on the chairlift when it is worth slowing down, looking around and simply appreciating where you are.
Then, of course, you get to ski back down. But, please, always ski within your capability.
Mount Ruapehu from the lifts at Tūroa
Respecting the mountain
Mt Ruapehu and Tongariro National Park are more than spectacular places for recreation. This is a landscape of deep cultural and spiritual significance. As visitors, we are privileged to spend time here.
We ask our guests to treat the mountain with care and respect, to stay informed about current conditions and restrictions, and to consider the principles of the Tiaki Promise when travelling through the region.
The mountain deserves respect. So do the people who care for it.
The Ohakune Mountain Road
Weather, roads and winter conditions
One of the most important things to understand about winter in Ruapehu is that mountain weather changes quickly. Conditions on the mountain can be completely different from conditions in Ohakune. A calm morning in town does not necessarily mean calm conditions higher up the mountain. Equally, a grey and wet day in Ohakune can occasionally give way to completely different conditions above the clouds.
The mountain always deserves respect.
Before travelling to either ski area:
~ Check current road and mountain conditions
~ Carry chains when required and know how to use them
~ Allow extra travel time
~ Dress appropriately for changing weather
~ Keep your vehicle adequately fuelled
~ Carry suitable food and water
~ Maintain a safe distance from other vehicles, particularly when roads may be icy
~ Consider using a shuttle if you are unfamiliar or uncomfortable with winter driving
Road requirements can change during the day. Chains may be required at one point and later only need to be carried. Conditions can deteriorate unexpectedly. If you are unsure, stop and ask. And if you are not confident driving in winter mountain conditions, use a shuttle.
There is no prize for making the journey more difficult than it needs to be.
Taking Care of Business at TCB
Equipment, rentals and local knowledge
Don't worry if you are not travelling with your own equipment.
Ohakune has several providers offering winter equipment and clothing, including:
~ Skis
~ Snowboards
~ Boots
~ Helmets
~ Jackets
~ Pants and outerwear
For many visitors, hiring locally is the easiest option and removes the hassle of travelling with bulky equipment. Having used several shops ourselves, for rentals and purchases, we now recommend the team at TCB. They have become close friends and trusted local partners, but we recommend them because we genuinely value their knowledge, equipment and willingness to help visitors understand the mountain.
TCB can assist with equipment, purchases and specialist advice, and the team has a great understanding of the wider Ruapehu snow environment.
When we travel towards Whakapapa, we also often call into The Alpine Centre in Waimarino (National Park) Village. It has a different atmosphere and its own excellent range of equipment and local knowledge.
If you want to do something a little more advanced, or need advice on gear, then our advice is simple: Talk to the people who spend their lives around the mountain.
Tongariro and Ngauruhoe in their winter coats
Other winter adventures around Ruapehu
Skiing and snowboarding are not the only winter adventures available in the region. Winter can also offer opportunities for guided alpine experiences, sightseeing and snow adventures. It is possible to experience the Tongariro Alpine Crossing in winter, but this is a very different undertaking from walking it in summer.
The Department of Conservation describes the winter route as requiring alpine skills, equipment and experience, and advises that from May to October the Crossing is best undertaken with a guide. This is something on our own bucket list. When the time comes, we will be going with experienced local professionals. Guided operators can provide the appropriate equipment, instruction and decision-making support for winter conditions.
Our advice is clear: Do not underestimate winter in this alpine environment.
Snow, ice, changing weather and difficult navigation can turn a familiar landscape into a very different place. If you are considering a winter Crossing, summit experience or other technical alpine adventure, speak directly with an experienced and appropriately qualified local operator.
Soak in a wood-fired hot tub at Ohakune Hot Tubs (source Visit Ruapehu)
When the weather changes
Sometimes Ruapehu has other plans. Ski fields can be affected by wind, visibility, snow conditions and other factors that are simply part of operating in a high alpine environment. We know how frustrating it can be to wake up excited for a day on the mountain only to find that conditions have changed. The good news is that your stay in the region does not have to end there, there are other Experiences in Tongariro.
Depending on conditions and what is operating, alternative winter activities can include:
~ Scenic mountain drives
~ Gondola sightseeing
~ Snow-play areas
~ Walking tracks around Ohakune and Whakapapa
~ Cycling when conditions allow
~ Local cafés and restaurants
~ Craft breweries and distilleries
~ Shopping and galleries
~ Simply slowing down and enjoying your accommodation
And, of course, there is always the hot tub or even a very special wood-fired experience at Ohakune Hot Tubs.
Many guests tell us that one of the unexpected pleasures of staying at Two Rivers is simply stopping. When you arrive, one of the first things you notice is the sound of the rivers. After a busy day - or an unexpectedly cancelled ski day - that sound has a remarkable calming effect.
Sometimes the best winter day is simply sitting beside the window with a coffee while watching fresh snow settle across the mountain.
The Hot Tub in the Mangawhero Suite - Two Rivers Ohakune (source: Lilia Alexander)
Planning your winter escape
Whether you are a first-time skier, an experienced snowboarder or simply someone who would like to experience snow in New Zealand, Ohakune provides an excellent base for exploring the winter side of Mt Ruapehu. Tūroa is close by, while Whakapapa is also within easy reach for a day on the northern side of the mountain.
But a winter holiday here can be about far more than the number of runs you ski. It can be about discovering a remarkable volcanic landscape. Learning something new. Sharing an adventure with family or friends. Finding a favourite mountain café. Experiencing snow for the first time. Or simply ending the day with tired legs, a good meal and somewhere warm to relax.
Come for the snow. Stay for everything else that makes Ruapehu special.
The Rua Awa Suite at Two Rivers Ohakune
Our private suites provide a peaceful riverside base, with Ohakune village just a short walk away and the Tongariro Alpine Crossing easily accessible by local shuttle.
Mt Ruapehu is one of New Zealand's great destinations for snow sports and mountain adventure. Choosing where you recover afterwards is just as important.
At Two Rivers, you can swap lift lines for birdsong, snow and ice for warm water, and the exhilaration of the mountain for complete relaxation.
Adventure hard. Rest well.
Stay at Two Rivers Ohakune
Read more about the Experience of Tongariro
Explore our accommodation
Regional Tourism Office Information - Visit Ruapehu
Two Rivers Blogs on Tūroa
Two Rivers Blogs on Whakapapa
Important information
Mountain conditions can change rapidly. Information on this page is intended as a practical guide based on our experience and should not replace current information from the Department of Conservation, weather forecasts, volcanic alerts or professional mountain guides. ALWAYS check the latest ski-field information each morning before setting out.
Author: Ula Tansley - Owner and Host at Two Rivers Ohakune
Published 23/8/26. Updated 23/8/26.